To get to the Covered Wagon Saloon in San Francisco, I took the Fifth Street
off ramp and went up one block to Folsom Street. I was supposed to meet Les
Blank there at 9 p.m.. He said he would have a ticket waiting for me at the
door. It was my birthday (64) and he was treating me to an evening with Hank
Williams III, the son of Hank Jr. and the grandson of legendary country icon
Hank Williams. My cowboy pal Johnny Westurn turned me on to Hank III a few
months ago. I, in turn, turned Les onto him. I bought Hank's one and only
CD, Risin Outlaw, and pushed Les until he too filled his hand with a Hank III
CD. Tonight Hank was playing at the Covered Wagon Saloon here in San
Francisco. The Covered Wagon Saloon is basically a Punk/rock venue, not, as
the name would imply, a country honky tonk.
This was new for me. I seldom go to clubs of any venue, or for any reason...
and hardly go anywhere without Alice, yet here I was, alone, pulling into the
parking lot across from the CWS looking for a place to park. (Alice was down
with the flu.) My naivete and I suppose my age was apparent. It made me an
easy target for one of those "fake" parking lot attendants who rushed up to
my car and stuck a ticket on my dash. He said, "Going to the Covered Wagon?"
As I reached for my wallet I said, "Sure am.....how much?" He hesitated for
a moment, sort of sizing me up, "Ah...six dollars." I said "OK."
Now here is where my age worked to my advantage. I can't see much without my
reading glasses in good light let alone here where it was quite dark. So I
am fumbling through my wallet trying to find some money. Meanwhile he is
making small talk, "I hear they got a country guy there tonight, heard he's
good....you from around here? jabber jabber jabber, distract distract
distract" I finally handed him a ten. He comes on with the old, "I ain't
got no change" bit. To which I said, "Come on,..you're a parking attendant
without any change?" He starts mumbling something and I start looking again
in my wallet for six bucks. But as I am looking I happened to look out my
windshield and I spot a sign attached to a light pole with bold letters
saying, "Do not pay any attendant to park. Only put money in metal box
provided" So I said to the guy, "OK, I've got six bucks, give me back my
ten. " He said OK and handed me back the ten. I put it in my wallet, put my
wallet away and said, "That sign says not to pay any attendant so I'm not
paying you." He mumbled something about it being a special night. But I
just parked my car and said that I would check at the Covered Wagon before I
paid any money for parking. Hey, I'm 64, I wasn't born yesterday.
There was a big green bus parked right in front of the saloon which is a
small San Francisco type building with what looked like two floors of
apartments up above. I can't for the life of me believe that anyone could
actually sleep nights in an apartment right over a fully plugged in punk/rock
club. Maybe it's for the employees. There were a few people hanging around
out front but tickets had not gone on sale yet. The paper said that the show
started at 9 p.m. Les was supposed to be there at 8:45 to get the tickets
and I was to meet him inside at nine. It was exactly 9 p.m. But this was a
punk/rock club not a train station. No Les, no ticket, no open door.
Doesn't anyone believe in time schedules? Where is Mussolini when you need
him.
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To go to a club, and especially to see the grandson of an American legend who
helped popularize the fancy western outfit, (although Hank III is not a fancy
dresser) I naturally decked myself out in my bright red fringe leather jacket
with matching red boots with burnt gold wing tips and heel counters. I
trimmed out with silver collar tips, large silver buckle, watch band with a
gold "cross M" brand and my silver concho, silver laced, "MaestroBelt. I was
not the kind of guy you see at these kinds of clubs on a regular basis.
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All eyes were on me as I pulled the door open and walked inside. A very nice
long haired guy with a black leather jacket came over and asks me,...
politely I might add, "Can I help you with something?" I told him about my
parking attendant problem. "Those damn guys, they're not supposed to be
doing that," he says. So he comes with me to the parking lot and confronts
the "attendant." I think they knew each other from prior incidents. They
started to argue. I don't like confrontations over pocket change so I handed
the "attendant" three bucks and said, "Here, watch my car." The guy said,
"OK, thanks." That ended it. I wasn't paying for parking I was paying for
someone to watch my car, like in Mexico. The club guy and I talked as we
went back to the saloon, he was nice and seemed happy that I resolved it
without any bloodshed. That's one good thing about ageing, you don't have
time for petty arguments. You do what the situation requires and you move
on. No winners, no losers,... just, situation ended. Period.
Les and his friend Gina came about 9:45. I was in line although I sort of
stood by the bus facing the crowd with my hands behind my back looking like a
security guard for Hank III. I think they bought it too, why else would a
guy my age, decked out in full fancy cowboy gear be standing by Hank's bus.
Don't mess with that dude, he's probably pack'n.
As Les bought the tickets I sort of hung back then just walked in like I
belonged there. I'm sure, once inside, Les, Gina, and I looked like we must
be "somebodies" because we did not look like part of the usual crowd. All you
have to do is look like you're not interested in whatever is going on and you
automatically are assumed to be "somebody." People who pose and look around
to see what's going on and what other people are doing think of themselves as
"nobodies." That's why they look around all the time,.. they're looking for
a "somebody." If you can look and act like a somebody, you are a somebody.
It's all in how you are perceived.
That is something else that comes with age. At 64 it's not easy to impress
me. My face is fixed. It reflects years of experience in a wide range of
situations without me having to move a muscle. Like a good poker player, and
Les is a master at this, I can observe everything stoically, showing no
facial emotions. Like Les, my eyes can scan everything down to the smallest
detail but my face looks like it could care less,... been there, done that.
In reality I was as excited as a third world peasant in Costco. Everything
my eyes took in was dressed in swaddling clothes. Just born images eager to
be held and caressed.
I lost control only once, my face opened up with surprise, like I had just
drawn four aces on the first deal, when I saw a young woman who was about
five feet tall weighing in at a good two hundred pounds dancing on top of an
old pool table. She was scantly attired in an old dance hall girl costume
and there was cleavage coming out in all directions. A sight that added
another detail to my experience bank. Later I found that there were actually
two of them, one working on top of the bar. Just as big, just as cleavaging.
Carol Doda! see what you've gone and done!
As we were waiting around for the music to get started the in house DJ was
blasting some punk/rock music from a small closet like booth. The entire
club was no more that thirty feet by forty feet, including the twenty foot
long bar. There were no chairs for us older folks to sit on. There was a
outcropping along each side wall where one could sit or stand depending on if
there was a band playing or it was intermission. We sat.
There was only a handful of people there and it was already 10 p.m. Several
people struck up a conversation with me asking about my boots and jacket. It
happens all the time. I gave out Johnny Westurns web site so they can visit
the page with photos of my boots and jackets. That's what the page was made
for, to keep me from explaining myself. Thanks JW.
At about ten thirty the first band came on. I can't remember their name but
they were from Minnesota where Prince is from, if I remember right. He must
have inspired a lot of young impressionable kids. This, I suppose, was just
another band trying to grab the golden ring on music's magical
merry-go-round. Lots of luck. What was their name? Blonde singer, bass,
two guitars and drum. Amps at 10. Loud.
The place was starting to fill up by the time the next band came on, the 401
K's. Guitar, bass and drum. Amps at 11, one more loud. But I will say that
they played with a certain professionalism that impressed me. They were in
tune and they started and stopped together. But my ears were ringing. Gina
found that they were giving away ear plugs and she got some. We all three
plugged up. I should say here that although Les and I are at the Beatles
magic number 64, Gina definitely is nowhere near that number. She only put
in the plugs to save her hearing so that when she does finally reach the
magic number she can still hear her Happy Birthday song.
Another break to set up for Hank. More pool table dancing. More loud
records. More people. More drinking. More smoking. More sweet smells.
More ringing in my ears, and more movement on my poker face. Just when I
thought I had seen it all they announce that for one buck you can go into a
back room and see one of these dancing girls completely nude!! Have your
eyes ever seen the glory....can your eyes stand the glory... I'll pass.
My mother used to play her Hank Williams records out at the ranch on her old
wind-up Victrola,... and I'd listen. That was probably about 1945 before his
big hit, Lovesick Blues. Lovesick Blues hit the charts in 1949 and was on
for almost a year. I was thirteen. I remember it well. I actually liked
his touring partner, Lefty Frizzell better when I was young, but in the long
haul, (the only haul that counts for anything), I side with Hank as being
Americas finest singer/songwriter of the twentieth century. He's just that
good.
He was divorced, sick, and flat broke when he died at age 30 in the back of
his 1953 Cadillac on January 1, 1953. Hank died from overuse of alcohol and
drugs brought on by too much fame too fast and not enough time to prepare for
it. Too many songs in too many smoky bars. Too much whiskey drenched soul
hung out to dry on a guitar string clothes line. He was done when he
started, all he had to do was fill in the middle part. He's resting easy now
though, under a sixteen foot monolith in Montgomery, Alabama. Next to him
is his wife Audry under a matching marker, both surrounded by artificial
turf. But there was nothing artificial about Hank Williams, he was the real
deal.
Now his son Hank Jr. is a little different story. He's "kind of" the real
deal. We'll have to wait until he is under his monolith before we can really
judge him. That Monday Night Football thing kind of muddies up the
water.....at least it does for me.
So here I am, to see, in person, the third Williams; Hank III. I have
listened to his only CD and I liked what I heard. I've read a few thing
about him and I've liked what I've read. He is anti- Nashville because of
all the corruption brought on by bean counters in the music business.
Profits now dictate the direction of country music not the music itself.
That's wrong and it's bad for country music. And since country music is
America's music it is bad for America. Money and the way it corrodes and
tarnishes whatever it touches is the single most destructive force active in
the arts today. I've not only come to see the grandson of an American
legend, I've come to see a soul mate, a brother in arms, a patriot, a fellow
revolutionary in America's cultural revolution.
He travels with a five piece band. Drum, lead guitar, stand up bass, fiddle,
and Hank himself on rhythm guitar. Loud but solid. My first impression of
him is that he's good. Professional and focused. In his element. Not his
father's son, not his grandfather's grandson but his own self. He rides on
no one's back. He's good on his own. He has the true country sound in his
voice, in his attitude, even in his forearm and hand as he fans the guitar
strings. Watching him sing and play I was mesmerized by what I was watching.
Somebody kept blowing these large puffs of un-inhaled smoke at him. It was
like a reenactment of some tragic story. Great artist rips heart out, dies
from playing too many smoked filled bars. Here we have a direct descendent
with the same lonesome voice singing his heart out in a small bar and
someone engulfs his head in smoke. It's unreal, yet oh so real. He looks so
young so clean almost virgin like with his smooth unblemished skin. Yet the
murkishness of death hovers around him like swamp fog.
I felt we were all in some way part of some strange ritual. Even my being
there in my fancy outfit played a part. I visioned my mother dancing on the
pool table playing her old wind up Victrola and laughing loudly. I visioned
thousands of Reverend Howard Finster's Hank Williams paintings with cryptic
religious messages scrawled over them, floating in distorted waves throughout
the room. I thought of the ancient Aztec rituals of fancy dressed priests
and swaying stupefied throngs of drunken revelers dancing with arms raised as
the sacrificial vassal is groomed and prepared for sacrifice. And the
vassal, knowing his fate, and caught up in the frenzy of the moment, happily
leaning into the knife.
That's what I saw there in this club, the great American temple. Another
sacrifice to the music gods. This young musician, born for the part,
tearing his heart out and serving it up to the cheers and applause of the
adoring masses. Will the circle be unbroken. I stayed to the end, not
wanting to miss a second of this dramatic ritual. When the lights came up, I
walked over to Hank and offered my hand,.. which he politely took. Our eyes
locked, "I enjoyed the evening" said I. "Thank you very much." came the
reply.